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Holy Week – A Metropolitan Pause

It’s Semana Santa, and Buenos Aires is throwing itself into holy week with characteristic gusto. Seafood shops have been mobbed for the past several days; empanadas de vigilia (seafood empanadas) are everywhere.

Those with means have fled the city for the Atlantic coast (in the midst of roads blocked by protesting farmers and highway drivers rumored to be more maniacal than usual). Those of us who remain are enjoying the relative silence in the metropolis – the city’s last deep breath before its frenetic fall rhythm resumes.

Last night at midnight, I caught columns of people pacing the sidewalks, recreating Jesus’s march to the cross.

Today, a large majority of the city’s restaurants – along with any businesses that choose to observe the sacred – are closed. Only the most determined taxistas scour the streets in search of passengers.

Stay tuned for next week’s taxi adventure.

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