You never know what treasures you might find when you’re wandering around after a taxi adventure — especially if you’re still hungry.
As I was walking away from Trattoria da Salvo, the seafood restaurant on Piazza della Kalsa where tassista Daniele dropped me off, I noticed a bunch of people crowding around a street stall giving off a wonderful, deep-fried smell. I sidled up to the display case to see what it was they were selling, and one of the guys behind the counter handed me a crocchè (croquette with mashed potato and egg).
I guess my face betrayed how I felt about that crocchè, because the guy behind the counter smiled and started passing me more things he thought I needed to try — a piece of breaded broccoli, a slice of fried eggplant, a panelle (chickpea fritter).
I know it’s hard to make anything deep-fried taste bad, but there’s something special going on at this stall, which is called Paninera Friggitoria Chiluzzo and has been open since 1943. After doing a little a research I learned that it’s considered one of the best friggitorias (fried food stands) in Palermo.
I don’t know about you, but I’m not used to eating fried broccoli for dessert (delicious though it may be), and I decided to go in search of something sweet. A few blocks later, I walked into Bar Rosanero, where they had some nice-looking marzipan in the window, on a whim.
It turns out that this pasticceria/tea room/bar/betting parlor near Piazza della Kalsa has been around for more than half a century, and that they make one of the finest lemon granitas I’ve ever tasted, toeing that delicate line between sweet and sour, letting the fruit shine through.
Bar Rosanero seems like one of those places that’s hell-bent on doing an impossible number of things well: the sweets selection is so vast it’s almost absurd, and they make everything in-house: gelato and cassata and cakes and bonbons and mousse and marzipan in every color of the rainbow. And if you’re in a gambling mood, you can visit soccer-betting counter in back.
Piazzetta Porta Reale, 6
Tel. +39 091 6164229
Paninera Friggitoria Chiluzzo
Piazza della Kalsa, 11
90133 Palermo Sicilia
Tel. +39 329 06 15 929
Open 7 days