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Layne Mosler

Berlin Dispatch: My Favorite Food & Drink Finds of 2015 – a Top 10 List

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2015 was a good year to be a passionate eater in Berlin. When I landed here in 2010, this was still a city where many people avoided restaurants altogether. And now? Berlin is drawing more and more young chefs and restaurateurs. Compared to Paris, London and New York, the barriers to entry in Berlin are considerably ...

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Berlin Dispatch: When Pide Leads to Döner, Part II

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Something remarkable happened on the way to the movies a few weeks ago: Rumen and I hopped in a cab with a driver named Aziz – who used to make his living selling pieces of the Berlin Wall, and who’s been driving a taxi for 16 years — on Frankfurter ...

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Berlin Dispatch: When Pide Leads to Döner – Part I

Photo by Rumen Milkow

Before he started driving a taxi 16 years ago, Aziz made his living selling pieces of the Berlin Wall. From 1990 to 1995 — his first years in Berlin — he manned a souvenir stand at Brandenburg Gate, learning German, observing the tourists, watching some of his Wall-selling colleagues become ...

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Berlin Dispatch: Osman’s Two Turkish Tips

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A burly, broad-shouldered man with a mop of black-brown curls who might be in his early 50s, Osman maneuvers his taxi with a light touch, like a piano player who enjoys an easy relationship with the keys. The expression on his face is not the expression you would expect of ...

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Berlin Dispatch: Rogacki Forever

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A few days ago I met a Berlin taxi driver named Zlatan who told me his favorite place to eat is Rogacki, the superdeli/marketplace in Charlottenburg that started out as a smoked fish stand back in 1928. Once a week, Zlatan stops by the cafeteria at Rogacki for fried codfish ...

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New York Dispatch: Connie’s Food Tips, Old and New

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There aren’t too many cabbies in this world who can pull off a purple fedora and “make a potato salad that’ll slap your mama.” Constance Marie Barnes is one of them. The diminutive cabby, whom I met in 2010, also recommended what is to this day one of my favorite ...

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Flashback: The Taxi Astrologer’s Masala Dosa

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Sometimes the cab ride, and the conversation with the driver, is the most remarkable part of a taxi adventure. Sometimes it’s the food. When I was living in New York, the trip with Vinod Dogra to Ganapati Temple Canteen in Flushing, Queens was one of those rare and wonderful instances ...

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Culinary Mapping: New York, Buenos Aires, Berlin

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I don’t know about you, but I’m obsessed with maps, and I couldn’t resist creating ones with all the cabby-recommended restaurants I wrote about in Driving Hungry. The map above is from the New York section of the book: At each marker, I’ve included a few lines from the story. ...

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Driving Hungry on Tour: Upcoming Readings

Photo by Lilian Moreira

We’re taking this book on the road! If you’re in any of these seven cities, I hope you can join me for an evening of stories about hunger and wanderlust: New York: Monday, July 27, 2015 – 7:00PM – McNally Jackson Books, 52 Prince Street Washington, DC: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 – ...

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Berlin Dispatch: Chasing the Golden Pretzel

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Jürgen has been driving a taxi in Berlin for over 20 years, and he doesn’t believe in giving restaurant recommendations. “How can I know,” he said, “if your taste is my taste?” Leave it to a German, I thought, as he went on to explain the inherent flaws in following ...

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