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Belgrano

Buenos Aires Dispatch: Pizza and Steak Near the No-Zone

On her first day in Buenos Aires, exchange student Kira Lerner sat in a meeting room in the city center, raring to explore every corner of the Argentine capital. After a quick welcome activity, her program directors handed her a map of the city covered with big red x’s. These ...

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Behind the Door at 2901

Underworlds abound in Buenos Aires. In its milongas (tango clubs), in its shantytowns, in its discos, bars, and restaurants. This is a city that wears many masks, a place that houses secret rooms behind simple facades. Sometimes the city reveals its secrets to me: a signless bakery here, an underground ...

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Lazy Lunching at La Vaca Pampa

Two twenty-something men slice into steaks at a sidewalk table, their mugs of beer half empty, their conversation on pause. Inside, a family of four chatters around a bottle of wine and ignores the basket of rolls growing stale beneath cold blasts of conditioned air. At the table next door, ...

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Ode to the Pit Stop

Not 60 seconds after picking me up in front of a tire store in the far reaches of Belgrano, the cabbie with the aquamarine eyes knows exactly where we’re headed for something good to eat. “They’ve got everything at this place,” he says, “Really good pastas, steaks, even pizza. But ...

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Metropolis in the Tangopolis

My homecoming taxi adventure was starting out with a bang. “I have colon problems,” the taxista said when I threw out my would-you-please-take-me-someplace-good-to-eat request, “So I haven’t eaten out in months.” “Besides,” he added, patting his slim belly, “You don’t eat what we eat.” “Excuse me?” I said. Who was ...

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Four Questions and Fujisan

“Where are you from?” “What are you doing in Buenos Aires?” “Do you have family here?” “Are you single?” If I start talking to any taxi driver in Buenos Aires, I’ll bet my tango shoes that these Four Questions will come up – in that exact order. This afternoon, I ...

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