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Buenos Aires Food Adventures

Lady Cab Driver

Tennessee Williams said that “Some mystery should be left in the revelation of character in a play, just as a great deal of mystery is always left in the revelation of character in life.” I would add that a great deal of mystery is always left in the revelation of ...

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Walter Rides Again

Six months ago, taxista Walter was shot four times while he was changing a flat tire in Wilde, in the southern suburbs of Buenos Aires. After forty days in the hospital, Walter dragged himself home, lay in bed, and waited for his wounds to heal. Friday night, for the first ...

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Follow the Cow

As part of their ongoing protest the against the government’s agricultural policies, Argentine farmers declared a seven day moratorium on the sale of beef and grains as of midnight Friday, March 20. In light of impending meat shortages, my co-adventurers and I were happy to follow the cow to one ...

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Diego’s Hangout

“Driving a taxi is the most stressful job I’ve ever had,” Diego said on a recent ride from Ezeiza airport. But after three years behind the wheel, the thirty-year-old cabbie with a rhinestone in his ear has developed some coping mechanisms. He’s traded psychotherapy for gardening. He plays soccer for ...

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Déjà David

The Anglo-Irish novelist Elizabeth Bowen says that “experience isn’t interesting until it begins to repeat itself – in fact, till it does that, it hardly is experience.” I tried to keep this idea in mind when Cacho, an ex-butcher who started driving a taxi after the Argentine economy crashed in ...

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Along for the Ride

If you read Washington Post reporter Joshua Partlow’s play-by-play of last week’s taxi adventure, you already know that the voyage to Tía Margarita had an unfortunate ending. Despite the crowd gathered on the sidewalk, the aroma of fried calamari that greeted us when we walked in, the sight of fresh ...

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The 24 Hour Steak House

Buenos Aires: cradle of tango, stronghold of soccer, metropolis of beef. If you’re trying to get a sense of how deep the local passion for meat runs, Lo de Charly might give you some clues. The grill is perpetually lit at this 24 hour steak house in Villa Urquiza, and ...

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El Español Redux

I don’t believe in coincidence. I do believe we get everything we ask for – whether we’re conscious of it or not. Which is why I’m not surprised that after a week of wondering about the pasta at El Español, taxista José granted my unspoken wish and delivered me there ...

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Afterthought: El Español

A corner cantina that’s been a magnet for taxi drivers for years, El Español is one of the few places in Buenos Aires where you can still find a cafe con leche and 3 medialunas (croissants) for less than six pesos (U$2). Thanks to its abundant, cheap food, several cabbies ...

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Adventures con Carne in Avellaneda

Irresistible is the best way to describe Mario, the 52-year old taxista from Avellaneda (a southern Buenos Aires suburb) who insisted he knew nothing about food outside his neighborhood. “I never eat in the capital,” he explained as he maneuvered through the madness of downtown Buenos Aires and merged onto ...

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