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Buenos Aires Food Adventures

The Top 10 Taxista Restaurants of 2008

In observance of the year-end gringo tradition of taking stock and ranking what comes to mind, I’ve compiled this list of the top 10 taxista-recommended restaurants of 2008. As I reflect on all of the wonderful things I’ve tasted this year, I’d like to take this moment to thank the ...

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The End of the Neighborhood Restaurant

Ding-dong, the restaurante de barrio is dead. At least that’s what taxista Nicolás would have us believe. After attempting to take my co-adventurer and I to no less than 10 guidebook-friendly restaurants (and insisting that we weren’t dressed conservatively enough to go to his favorite cabbie hangout), we finally surrendered ...

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Reader Fare: A Revelation in Coghlan

Once my co-adventurer and I scanned the specials board that greeted us at Vicente, we knew we’d stepped out of steak and milanesa territory. Chicken stuffed with prosciutto, mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes and asparagus? Risotto with beef, mushrooms, sage and cream? Sweet and sour pork with caramelized sweet potatoes? To our ...

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Zen and the Art of Driving a Taxi

After it was clear that our first cab driver of the day couldn’t guide us beyond the fancy restaurants in Puerto Madero – and that he wasn’t quite ready to take us to his house for milanesas – we climbed out of his taxi and hopped into the yellow and ...

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Alberto’s Lunch Haunt

By the time Alberto dropped me off at the gargantuan buffet at Maizales on my last food quest, I was hungry – but not ready for the adventure with the charming taxista to end. Luckily, Alberto gave me the skinny about another restaurant where he often spends his lunch hour: ...

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Alberto & the Crazy Crepe Guy

12:00pm: You are standing at the corner of San Juan and Boedo, one of the most famous intersections in Buenos Aires. Across the street, tourists snap pictures of the Esquina Homero Manzi, the now famous cafe where tango composer Homero Manzi wrote “Sur,” an ode to his adopted neighborhood on ...

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Jorge & Don Zoilo

“I wish I could eat with you,” said Jorge the taxista, “But I really can’t. My wife would kill me.” “You’re right,” I agreed, “You can’t.” “Yep, it’s just too dangerous. I’m a handsome guy. My wife doesn’t let me go out alone. When I get fixed up, you better ...

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No Nonsense at Pablin’s

Every passenger I pick up Is a strange book I learn to decipher. People in their own heaven, in their own hell, With their desire to laugh or cry. – Rodolfo Taboada, Taxi Mío (Tango) To Ricardo, the taxista from Villa Devoto, my Australian co-adventurers and I were indeed strange ...

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To the Province…and Sweet Bliss

A long time ago, during a taxi adventure not so far away, a flirtatious evangelical pastor named Roque delivered me to La Americana. Though the corner pizzeria wasn’t exactly the “the queen of empanadas” that Roque promised, I was still impressed with La Americana’s fierce line-up of traditional desserts: bread ...

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Marcelo and the Emerald

I know within seconds of getting into Marcelo’s cab that I probably won’t end up at a spectacular restaurant. But I stay in the taxi anyway. Maybe it’s the fact that he was daydreaming when I knocked on the passenger side window. Maybe it’s the way he eases over to ...

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