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Buenos Aires Food Adventures

La Vita è Bella

“I don’t eat lunch,” the taxista said, “I only eat fruit when I’m driving. I have to take care of myself, you know?” Take care of himself he did. If I didn’t know better, I would’ve assumed that the bald cabbie in the sky-blue sweater vest had just come from ...

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The Little Pizzeria That Could

When Martín the taxista dropped me off at Don Lechón during last week’s taxi adventure, he was kind enough to let me in on another secret: La Mezzetta. “Everyone is nuts about this pizzeria,” he said, “It’s not my favorite – I don’t like their dough. But you should probably ...

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Lunch with the Don

I was standing on the corner of Alvarez Thomas and Avenida Elcano, across the street from Don Lechón, the neighborhood restaurant in Colegiales where Martín the taxista had just dropped me off. I stared at the giant sign, crowned by a smiling pig wearing a red beret. Inside, the tables ...

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Locro and Libertad at La Tranquerita

“I hate taxistas,” Ricardo said, running his hands through his long, grey hair, “They’re arrogant. They’re liars and cheats.” “And how long have you been driving a cab?” I asked him. “A year.” “And before that?” “I sold lingerie. But after I left that behind, I knew I couldn’t sit ...

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Behind the Door at 2901

Underworlds abound in Buenos Aires. In its milongas (tango clubs), in its shantytowns, in its discos, bars, and restaurants. This is a city that wears many masks, a place that houses secret rooms behind simple facades. Sometimes the city reveals its secrets to me: a signless bakery here, an underground ...

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Starbucks, Boca, Clásica y Moderna

I hop off the bus near the train station in Constitución, a southern Buenos Aires barrio that’s a dumb place to explore at night and a fantastic place to eat Paraguayan street food by day. But I’m not looking for lunch. In light of the fact that Starbucks is scheduled to open ...

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Passion and Pizza: The Journey to San Antonio

The following entry is rated R, as it contains adult material. “Aren’t you going to invite me to eat with you?” “Only if it’s lunch and nothing more,” I said. “No kisses?” “No kisses.” “Not even a kiss on the cheek?” “This is how it’s going to be,” I said, ...

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The Adventure Goes Tango

In the tango world, you only step off the dance floor in the middle of a song set under the gravest of circumstances. Unless you’ve twisted your ankle, you’ve suddenly fallen ill, or the place is on fire, the so-called practice of “interrupting the tanda [song set]” is generally frowned ...

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Let them eat steak!

Sunday lunch in Buenos Aires, as in the rest of the Latin world, is a dearly beloved, family-centered, excess-friendly ritual. But on this particular Sunday, locals dove into the rite with even more passion than usual. After three weeks of food shortages sparked by a nationwide farmers’ protest against government-sponsored ...

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Who needs beef when you’ve got blood sausage?

Translation: Due to recent events that the public is aware of, generated by the depletion of the meat (i.e. beef) sector, we are letting you know that the products we’re serving today from the grill are the following: Chorizo (sausage) and blood sausage Kidneys and sweet breads Pork flank steak ...

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