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El Español Redux

I don’t believe in coincidence. I do believe we get everything we ask for – whether we’re conscious of it or not. Which is why I’m not surprised that after a week of wondering about the pasta at El Español, taxista José granted my unspoken wish and delivered me there ...

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Afterthought: El Español

A corner cantina that’s been a magnet for taxi drivers for years, El Español is one of the few places in Buenos Aires where you can still find a cafe con leche and 3 medialunas (croissants) for less than six pesos (U$2). Thanks to its abundant, cheap food, several cabbies ...

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Adventures con Carne in Avellaneda

Irresistible is the best way to describe Mario, the 52-year old taxista from Avellaneda (a southern Buenos Aires suburb) who insisted he knew nothing about food outside his neighborhood. “I never eat in the capital,” he explained as he maneuvered through the madness of downtown Buenos Aires and merged onto ...

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The Top 10 Taxista Restaurants of 2008

In observance of the year-end gringo tradition of taking stock and ranking what comes to mind, I’ve compiled this list of the top 10 taxista-recommended restaurants of 2008. As I reflect on all of the wonderful things I’ve tasted this year, I’d like to take this moment to thank the ...

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The End of the Neighborhood Restaurant

Ding-dong, the restaurante de barrio is dead. At least that’s what taxista Nicolás would have us believe. After attempting to take my co-adventurer and I to no less than 10 guidebook-friendly restaurants (and insisting that we weren’t dressed conservatively enough to go to his favorite cabbie hangout), we finally surrendered ...

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Reader Fare: A Revelation in Coghlan

Once my co-adventurer and I scanned the specials board that greeted us at Vicente, we knew we’d stepped out of steak and milanesa territory. Chicken stuffed with prosciutto, mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes and asparagus? Risotto with beef, mushrooms, sage and cream? Sweet and sour pork with caramelized sweet potatoes? To our ...

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Zen and the Art of Driving a Taxi

After it was clear that our first cab driver of the day couldn’t guide us beyond the fancy restaurants in Puerto Madero – and that he wasn’t quite ready to take us to his house for milanesas – we climbed out of his taxi and hopped into the yellow and ...

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Alberto’s Lunch Haunt

By the time Alberto dropped me off at the gargantuan buffet at Maizales on my last food quest, I was hungry – but not ready for the adventure with the charming taxista to end. Luckily, Alberto gave me the skinny about another restaurant where he often spends his lunch hour: ...

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Alberto & the Crazy Crepe Guy

12:00pm: You are standing at the corner of San Juan and Boedo, one of the most famous intersections in Buenos Aires. Across the street, tourists snap pictures of the Esquina Homero Manzi, the now famous cafe where tango composer Homero Manzi wrote “Sur,” an ode to his adopted neighborhood on ...

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Jorge & Don Zoilo

“I wish I could eat with you,” said Jorge the taxista, “But I really can’t. My wife would kill me.” “You’re right,” I agreed, “You can’t.” “Yep, it’s just too dangerous. I’m a handsome guy. My wife doesn’t let me go out alone. When I get fixed up, you better ...

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