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Post-Crisis Pizza

If the Judeo-Christian world divides history between the periods before and after the birth of Christ, I’d venture that many Argentine taxi drivers divide their lives between the time before and after the country’s 2001 economic crisis. Marcelo, the blue-eyed taxista with a Tasmanian Devil suction-cupped to his windshield, counts ...

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El Español Redux

I don’t believe in coincidence. I do believe we get everything we ask for – whether we’re conscious of it or not. Which is why I’m not surprised that after a week of wondering about the pasta at El Español, taxista José granted my unspoken wish and delivered me there ...

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Afterthought: El Español

A corner cantina that’s been a magnet for taxi drivers for years, El Español is one of the few places in Buenos Aires where you can still find a cafe con leche and 3 medialunas (croissants) for less than six pesos (U$2). Thanks to its abundant, cheap food, several cabbies ...

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La Americana…at La Americana

Flirtation is a fact of life in Argentina. Whether you’re walking down the street, buying a pack of gum, wrangling with the bureaucrats at immigration, or getting you’re teeth cleaned, the men in this country openly exercise their right to pour on the charm. Taxistas are no exception – in ...

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