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Palermo

Diego’s Hangout

“Driving a taxi is the most stressful job I’ve ever had,” Diego said on a recent ride from Ezeiza airport. But after three years behind the wheel, the thirty-year-old cabbie with a rhinestone in his ear has developed some coping mechanisms. He’s traded psychotherapy for gardening. He plays soccer for ...

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Marcelo and the Emerald

I know within seconds of getting into Marcelo’s cab that I probably won’t end up at a spectacular restaurant. But I stay in the taxi anyway. Maybe it’s the fact that he was daydreaming when I knocked on the passenger side window. Maybe it’s the way he eases over to ...

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La Vita è Bella

“I don’t eat lunch,” the taxista said, “I only eat fruit when I’m driving. I have to take care of myself, you know?” Take care of himself he did. If I didn’t know better, I would’ve assumed that the bald cabbie in the sky-blue sweater vest had just come from ...

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Let them eat steak!

Sunday lunch in Buenos Aires, as in the rest of the Latin world, is a dearly beloved, family-centered, excess-friendly ritual. But on this particular Sunday, locals dove into the rite with even more passion than usual. After three weeks of food shortages sparked by a nationwide farmers’ protest against government-sponsored ...

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Pork and Política at Don Justo

Buenos Aires – and Argentina in general – is still enveloped in the conflict that unfolded over two weeks ago when farmers began their strike against the government’s latest export tax increase. Roadblocks in the provinces have prevented food from entering the city, and grocery store shelves once overflowing with ...

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La Dorita

OK, I admit it – beginning a taxi adventure knowing exactly what I want to eat undermines the spirit of going where the taxista takes me. But on this day, my longing for kebab and baba ghanouj is more powerful than my willingness to surrender to the whims of just ...

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La Aguada

“Some of us have to work for a living.” The taxi driver didn’t actually say it, but I could read the words in his eyes. “I’m a taxi driver,” he said, “I don’t have a favorite restaurant because I eat every meal at home.” He bent over, removed a binder ...

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