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Buenos Aires Dispatch: Pizza and Steak Near the No-Zone

On her first day in Buenos Aires, exchange student Kira Lerner sat in a meeting room in the city center, raring to explore every corner of the Argentine capital. After a quick welcome activity, her program directors handed her a map of the city covered with big red x’s. These ...

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A Taxi Adventure Marathon with The Guardian

A few Saturdays ago, The Guardian travel writer Vicky Baker and I embarked on a taxi adventure marathon in Buenos Aires. True to the spirit of the taxi adventures to date, we met three remarkable cabbies who showed us three excellent restaurants far off the city’s tourist circuit: El Viejo ...

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Follow the Cow

As part of their ongoing protest the against the government’s agricultural policies, Argentine farmers declared a seven day moratorium on the sale of beef and grains as of midnight Friday, March 20. In light of impending meat shortages, my co-adventurers and I were happy to follow the cow to one ...

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The 24 Hour Steak House

Buenos Aires: cradle of tango, stronghold of soccer, metropolis of beef. If you’re trying to get a sense of how deep the local passion for meat runs, Lo de Charly might give you some clues. The grill is perpetually lit at this 24 hour steak house in Villa Urquiza, and ...

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Adventures con Carne in Avellaneda

Irresistible is the best way to describe Mario, the 52-year old taxista from Avellaneda (a southern Buenos Aires suburb) who insisted he knew nothing about food outside his neighborhood. “I never eat in the capital,” he explained as he maneuvered through the madness of downtown Buenos Aires and merged onto ...

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The Top 10 Taxista Restaurants of 2008

In observance of the year-end gringo tradition of taking stock and ranking what comes to mind, I’ve compiled this list of the top 10 taxista-recommended restaurants of 2008. As I reflect on all of the wonderful things I’ve tasted this year, I’d like to take this moment to thank the ...

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Jorge & Don Zoilo

“I wish I could eat with you,” said Jorge the taxista, “But I really can’t. My wife would kill me.” “You’re right,” I agreed, “You can’t.” “Yep, it’s just too dangerous. I’m a handsome guy. My wife doesn’t let me go out alone. When I get fixed up, you better ...

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Behind the Door at 2901

Underworlds abound in Buenos Aires. In its milongas (tango clubs), in its shantytowns, in its discos, bars, and restaurants. This is a city that wears many masks, a place that houses secret rooms behind simple facades. Sometimes the city reveals its secrets to me: a signless bakery here, an underground ...

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Let them eat steak!

Sunday lunch in Buenos Aires, as in the rest of the Latin world, is a dearly beloved, family-centered, excess-friendly ritual. But on this particular Sunday, locals dove into the rite with even more passion than usual. After three weeks of food shortages sparked by a nationwide farmers’ protest against government-sponsored ...

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Who needs beef when you’ve got blood sausage?

Translation: Due to recent events that the public is aware of, generated by the depletion of the meat (i.e. beef) sector, we are letting you know that the products we’re serving today from the grill are the following: Chorizo (sausage) and blood sausage Kidneys and sweet breads Pork flank steak ...

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