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The End of the Neighborhood Restaurant

Ding-dong, the restaurante de barrio is dead. At least that’s what taxista Nicolás would have us believe. After attempting to take my co-adventurer and I to no less than 10 guidebook-friendly restaurants (and insisting that we weren’t dressed conservatively enough to go to his favorite cabbie hangout), we finally surrendered ...

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Chiquilín, dame un ramo de voz, así salgo a vender mis vergüenzas en flor. Little one, give me a strand of voice so I can go out and sell my embarrassments in flowers. So goes the chorus of “Chiquilín de Bachin,” the heart wrenching tango by Horacio Ferrer that chronicles ...

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When I’m flying blind in a new place (i.e. in the absence of research, guidebooks, or personal recommendations), I like to coast on the illusion that my instincts will guide me to a great place to eat. Some of the cues are obvious. Crowded at peak hours is good. Crowded ...

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