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Tucumán

An Empanada Interlude

May 13, 2007: Rosa, my bikini waxer from the northwestern province of Tucumán, is trying to distract me as she rips my hair from unspeakable places. “You really write about food?” she says. “Yes,” I gasp, holding still as she attacks some stubborn strands with tweezers, “Right now I’m obsessed ...

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Hostería Lunahuana

Tafí del Valle, Tucumán – You are in the foothills of the Andes in northwest Argentina, sitting on the covered porch at Las Carreras, an estancia that produces a cow’s milk manchego that is easily the best cheese you’ve tasted in Argentina. Full of fine cheese, tipsy from a full-bodied ...

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La Aguada

“Some of us have to work for a living.” The taxi driver didn’t actually say it, but I could read the words in his eyes. “I’m a taxi driver,” he said, “I don’t have a favorite restaurant because I eat every meal at home.” He bent over, removed a binder ...

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