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Tag Archives: further afield

Gnocchi on the Other Side of the River

Since the 1970s, Argentines – and their Uruguayan neighbors – have used the word ñoqui (“lump” in Italian) to describe public sector employees who only bother to show up for work at the end of the month to pick up their paychecks. To this day, in a mocking celebration of ...

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To the Province…and Sweet Bliss

A long time ago, during a taxi adventure not so far away, a flirtatious evangelical pastor named Roque delivered me to La Americana. Though the corner pizzeria wasn’t exactly the “the queen of empanadas” that Roque promised, I was still impressed with La Americana’s fierce line-up of traditional desserts: bread ...

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An Empanada Interlude

May 13, 2007: Rosa, my bikini waxer from the northwestern province of Tucumán, is trying to distract me as she rips my hair from unspeakable places. “You really write about food?” she says. “Yes,” I gasp, holding still as she attacks some stubborn strands with tweezers, “Right now I’m obsessed ...

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Hostería Lunahuana

Tafí del Valle, Tucumán – You are in the foothills of the Andes in northwest Argentina, sitting on the covered porch at Las Carreras, an estancia that produces a cow’s milk manchego that is easily the best cheese you’ve tasted in Argentina. Full of fine cheese, tipsy from a full-bodied ...

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