Every year, at least once a year, I fly to California to visit my family in Long Beach, and every year, we take a bittersweet drive to 421 Obispo Street, the former address of Eash Deli & Meats, my grandparents’ deli, where grandpa made his own sausage, cured his own bacon, and swathed his pastrami in thick layers of black pepper, while grandma made potato salad whose deliciousness is impossible for anyone in our family to replicate, even though we all have the recipe.
Eash Deli & Meats is now a fish taco stand called Holé Molé. Though the change was hard to accept at first, almost as hard to accept as the closing of Eash Deli all those years ago, our family has made peace with the fish tacos – we think grandpa would’ve liked them. (I’m not so sure about Grandma, though: ‘Fish in a taco?!’ I can hear her saying. ‘What the hell?’).
Despite being deemed “the Least Appropriately Named Mexican Restaurant in Long Beach“, and despite over-battering the fish in their tacos from time to time, Holé Molé has become more and more popular since it opened almost a decade ago – they’ve got five locations now. We like to think its success has something to do with an auspicious beginning at 421 Obispo Street.
So I guess we shouldn’t have been too surprised when Thom, the taxi driver with four sons who picked us up at Long Beach airport, told us where he liked to eat. “I just came from lunch,” he said. “At Holé Molé.”
421 Obispo Avenue
Long Beach, CA
Open: Daily, 9:00 am-10:00pm
Recommended: Fish tacos (vs. shrimp tacos, which tend to be too heavily battered)